Fresh-Frozen Surf Clams Shell On

Clams left in the shell, each one a smooth rounded oval of pale yellow-beige with a faint darker rim along the hinge. Most lie open, showing a plump pale-yellow foot and a thin skirt of tissue inside, with the shells still wet. They are shown three ways: a mound on a white board beside a steel sink; a full white bowl on a steel bench with salt and pepper grinders and a bottle of oil behind; and a heap on a light wooden board with a folded towel in the corner.

The meat is plump and sweet with a clean brininess and a slight chew. Steam them open with ginger and a splash of rice wine, simmer them into a light broth, or blanch them and dress the meat cold.

• Whole, in the shell
• Smooth oval shell, pale yellow meat
• Plump, sweet and briny
• Steam, simmer in broth or blanch

Keep frozen at -18°C or below. Thaw in the refrigerator and cook thoroughly before eating.